A Date With Nature at the Nairobi Safari Walk

“A traveler without observation is a bird without wings”-Moslih Eddin Saadi.

After a 20-minute- ride in a matatu from Nairobi’s bus station, I am finally here at the entrance of Nairobi Safari walk. It is 1pm but the sun’s big eye is shut.  Thick grey clouds are hanging dangerously above my head. On my left, stands Nairobi national park’s gate, almost shadowing the view of Nairobi animal orphanage. A group of 3 foreigners, speaking animatedly in Australian accent are taking too long at the reception. One of them, a loud man with heavy make-up and feminine moves is raising eyebrows from onlookers. My patience is on trial. I am tempted to change my mind.  Unlike  Nairobi animal orphanage and the national park, very little has been written about Nairobi Safari Walk.

“I came here on a mission to ‘discover,’’’ I reassure myself as I force my way past the Australians, Kenyan style.  The ticketing officer, lifts his face to meet my gaze. I  am expecting a growl or a bark from his no-nonsense face. “Hallo,’’ I attempt to break the tension. “Hallo, welcome to Nairobi Safari walk. Are you a Kenyan citizen?’’ he asks in a calm voice. I nod. “You will pay Ksh 215,’’ he says. I display my national identity card and part with Ksh 500. Impressed by his professionalism , I ask him to keep change but he politely declines the offer.

Distant lion roars and birds chirping and swooping in the air, welcome me in style. I am almost breathless and quite scared of walking on the raised  wooden boardwalk. However, the further I walk, the less tense I become. I hear sharp cracking noise ahead of me. I stop, listen intently, look left and right but there is nothing. I walk cautiously, conscious of the danger of the wild. Eureka! There are pigmy hippos grazing a few metres from me. They look healthy and undisturbed by my presence.  The ecosystem around here is wetland with large masses of water lilies. Not far from the hippos, lies an adult Nile crocodile, eyes closed and mouth wide  open. I guess he must have had a very heavy lunch.

The adventurous spirit in me urges me to move ahead. I grab my camera and photograph them. From the corner of my right eye, I see a rungu wielding Masaai man approaching me. Startled, I freeze on the ground. We exchange formal greetings and he offers to show me around.  “Why is that crocodile asleep?’’ I ask him in Kiswahili.  He laughs and dares me to jump into its enclosure to find out whether its asleep or alert.

“Is the whole habitat of Nairobi Safari walk a wetland?’’ I ask my host. ‘‘No. We are transiting onto Savannah environment,” he says pointing at a rock hyrax. A white signpost stands at the edge of the trail. It bears pictures  of three rock hyrax and an elephant. “Hyrax and elephants are cousins,’’ reads the signpost in part, “The 2kg rock hyrax is a distant cousin to the 1200kg elephant. Forty million years ago, there was a beast called moeritherium. The hyrax and the elephant  can both be traced back to this ancient ancestor.’’

“This is just the beginning of pleasure,’’ the tour guide accelerates my adrenaline. “What next!’’ I exclaim. ‘’Be calm and follow me.’’ I trail behind the Maasai warrior, passing a number of colourful signposts and diverse indigenous  tree species. From a distance, I can spot an endangered rhinoceros grazing. Not far from the rhino are herds of zebra, antelopes and a proud ostrich−a lone bird amid grazers.

 

Growls rent the air accompanied by purrs.  I follow into the footsteps of my host without uttering a word. We enter a medium-sized shelter with walls made of glass.  Outside, a restless big cat, I guess it is a cheetah, is purring . “Is that  a cheetah or a leopard?’’ I break the silence. “It is a cheetah. The main difference between the two is that  cheetahs have a tear line running from the inside of their eye to the mouth while leopards lack that feature.’’ Beaming with satisfaction, I hand my camera to the guide and request him to take photos of me.  I pose like Usain Bolt in front of the fastest animal on earth, smiling sheepishly.  Bang! A loud noise on the glass wall awakens all the demons in my head. I yell and jump in the air. My host is busy laughing like a hyena and capturing that awkward moment on camera. I gasp and look behind me. The cheetah is hitting the wall with its head. ‘’That glass wall is stronger that what you imagine. Not even an elephant can break it.’’

Scared blogger yelling at the top of his voice as the restless cheetah hit the wall

I force a short laughter.”Time to leave,’’ I mumble. “Not before viewing  river Mokoyet,’’ my host cuts me short. ‘’As you say,’’ I respond leading the way, unaware of the exact location of the river. The clouds have scattered and the sun is partially exposed. I hum to myself Reuben James, hoping that the clouds will scatter further.

We are at the end of the boardwalk. Below us, river Mokoyet flows silently.  I whistle. A scared dik-dik hops to the bush. A  buffalo materializes from the forest and drinks water. Next to  the buffalo, are mating oryx gazelles. ‘’There is love in the wild,’’ my guide comments . ‘’And I am in love  with the wild,’’ I reply. “That’s lovely,’’ someone shouts from behind. I turn back. The three Australians are right behind us. The sissy loud dude is dancing− gyrating his hips and pointing at the mating gazelles with his lips. The burly man is holding his slim girlfriend in a tight embrace, taking selfies and chanting ‘that’s lovely’ after every 3 seconds.

Thank you Nairobi Safari Walk for showing me love.

 

 

 

 

7 Wonders of Kenya

From the majestic Mt. Kenya to the pearly white sandy beaches at the coast , Kenya is indeed a paradise for holidaymakers. Here below is a list of 7 wonders of the world’s number one safari destination.

1. Kituluni Hill(The Anti-gravity Hill)

 

Kituluni hill, located 12 kilometres East of Machakos town, is the only place on earth where water flows uphill for 20 metres before changing its course at the peak of the hill. The same mysterious result has been reported on stationery vehicles whose engines have been switched off and parked at the side of the road, next to the hill. The vehicle moves up the hill at a speed of 5kph unaided for a distance of approximately 1 km.

The tarmac road that leads to Kituluni is punctuated with sharp turns and bends. Midway round the hill, irrespective of the driving speed, cars are usually jerked forward and suddenly accelerate without any visible change on the speedometer.

So far, no scientific study has been conducted to explain this rather bizarre phenomenon.

2. Saiwa Swamp National Park.

Situated in Trans-nzoia county , 27 kilometres north of Kitale town , Saiwa swamp sits on 2.7 square kilometres of land, making it the smallest national park in Kenya. Despite its  size, the park is habitat  to rare and endangered  semi-aquatic sitatunga antelope, endangered debarazza monkey, bush bucks, giant forest squirrels, black and white colobus monkey, amphibians and reptiles. The park is also home to the grey crowned cranes and about 372 other bird species.

The park’s vegetation is a combination of riverine forests, grasslands, acacia, bulrushes and sedges.

Saiwa Swamp National Park is open daily(inclusive of weekends and public holidays) from 6:00 am to 6:00pm. The park entry fees are: Citizen adults Ksh 350, resident adults Ksh 600 while non residents are charged 25 USD for adults and 15 USD for children.

3. The Great Rift Valley

It is the dream of every adventurous traveller to view the Great rift valley, a mega fault-line that covers approximately one sixth of the earth’s circumference. The Great rift valley  cuts across  Kenya from north to south. The valley’s floor is marked by lakes and volcanoes.  A perfect place to have a breath-taking view of the Great Rift valley is at the edge of the Nairobi-Nakuru highway, in Limuru. At this point, visitors will have a panorama view  of  the Great Rift valley with it’s vast vegetation.

This is a  scenic sight to behold that  will definitely turn any traveller to a poet.

4. Mt Kenya

Mt. Kenya is the highest mountain in Kenya and the second highest in Africa after Mt. Kilimanjaro. The three main summits of the mountain are: Batian at 5199 metres above the sea level, Nelion at 5188 metres and point Lenana at 4985 metres. Mount Kenya has diverse vegetation from the base to the summit. Furthermore, the mountain has 12 remnant glaciers  that are receding rapidly. An area of 715 km²  within the centre of the mountain is gazzetted  National Park and as of 1997 it was listed as one of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mt. Kenya is  200km north of Nairobi and  can be  accessed by road from Nairobi to its nearest towns-Nanyuki and Meru. Travellers with keen interest in trekking and hiking are highly recommended to explore this destination.

5. Lake Turkana

Situated in Northen Kenya, on  the floor of the Great rift valley, lake Turkana is the world’s largest permanent desert lake as well as the world’s largest alkaline lake in terms of volume. It is also the fourth largest salty lake in the world. The lake is home to about 50 species of fish that includes 11 endangered species such as Barbus turkanae and chichlids. Lake Turkana also contains a sizeable population of Nile crocodiles and large water turtles. On the Eastern shore of the lake, lies lake Turkana national park that is  listed as a UNESCO world heritage site.

The East and West Shores of Turkana  are separated by the wide Suguta valley. The east shore of the lake  can be accessed through  Maralal and Marsabit  to Loyangalani whereas the west shore can be reached via Kitale to Lodwar. Both shores have airstrips. Generally, it is a two day journey on road from Nairobi to either of the shores.

6. DIANI BEACH

Diani  beach is a composition of  immaculate-white sand hugging the turquoise  waters of the  mighty Indian Ocean. Located 30 kilometres south of Mombasa in Kwale county, the beach is 10 kilometres long.  The water is always shallow near the shore.  Underwater sandbars near the surface easen wading. From the beach, visitors  can have a clear  view of the extensive palm trees that cover the coastal region.

An airstrip is situated near the beach, off the Mombasa-Lungalunga road.

7. KAKAMEGA RAIN FOREST

Kakamega  rain forest is Kenya’s only tropical forest. It sits in the heart of western Kenya in the counties of Kakamega and Kisumu. Kakamega forest is a paradise of birds. 367 species of birds have been spotted in the forest. Wildlife that live in the park include the tree pangolin, bush pig, duikers, mongoose, giant African water shrew, squirrels, porcupine, bushbuck among many others. The park’s Flora is diverse and includes indigenous African soft woods as well as hardwoods such  as the Elgon teak, red and white stinkwood.

Visitors can access the forest through the Southern part at Isechano Forest station that is run by the Kenya Forest Service. There is a well-defined network  of walking and hiking trails  in the forest. The park entry fees are as follows: Non citizens  Ksh 600,  residents  Ksh 400  while Kenya citizens  pay Ksh200 per day.

7 Places to Visit at the Nairobi National Museum

Nairobi National  Museum  sits on Museum hill, approximately five to ten minutes drive from the city centre. Travellers keen on learning Kenya’s diverse culture and rich history will find the museum resourceful. Here below is a list of 7 interesting places, among many others, to visit at the museum:

Entrance to Nairobi National Museum.

1. Botanical Garden

The garden is artistically laid out in thematic displays that integrate Kenya’s natural, historical and cultural heritage with plants and habitat displays.  The demonstration garden contains indigenous medicinal plants that were collected throughout Kenya. Currently, the garden is home to some 600 indigenous and 100 exotic plant species and cultivars growing in 11 of the proposed 16 thematic displays.   Located in a tranquil environment, adjacent to the mighty Nairobi river, visitors will not only have a rare breath-taking moment  to interact with nature , away from the  hustles and bustles of the city, but also learn about various plants, their  habitats as well as adaptations.

 

A section of the botanical garden.

2. Birds of East Africa Exhibit

East Africa is one of the world’s richest  regions in terms of bird species diversity, with a record of over 1,300 species.  Most of these are readily available in the exhibit; a display of regularly-occurring species as well as endangered ones . Some of the 8 Kenyan endemics are exhibited too.

Visitors will have an easy time in the gallery since distinguishing characters of each species are enumerated on its accompanying label together with a brief description of geographical locations where the bird exists.

 

3. Mammals: The Race for Survival

In this gallery, visitors will find out why some mammals look similar but are unrelated and others look  different but are related.

The most outstanding feature in this gallery is the gigantic skeleton of elephant  Ahmed who lived in Marsabit in Northern Kenya. Ahmed was, and still is, famous because of his large and beautifully-proportioned tusks. In 1960s, elephant poaching became rampant in Kenya. Concerns were raised about Ahmed being a possible target of poachers. In 1970, in order to protect him from poachers, the then  President of Kenya, Mzee Jomo Kenyatta, placed the Elephant under his protection by presidential decree, an unparalleled occurrence in the history of the country and the only Elephant to be declared a living monument. The giant was watched over day and night by two hunters against poachers.  In addition, Ahmed was protected by two bull elephants who remained by his side. 

In 1974, Ahmed died a natural death at the age of 55 years. President Jomo Kenyatta decreed that  his remains should be preserved for future generations to learn.

4. Nairobi Snake Park

Nairobi snake park exhibits live snakes; invertebrates like giant snails, baboon spider , Mombasa train millipede, crayfish, freshwater prawns and vertebrates like fish both marine and fresh water; amphibians and mammals. The park  also offers  services such as rescue and rehabilitation for reptiles (abandoned, confiscated and illegal collection), dissemination of information on aquarium fish and reptiles as well as specialized talks on the same.

To date, the Snake Park  continues to assist  Nairobi residents in rescuing their residential areas by removing spotted house snakes and providing advice on how to reduce possible snakebites within homesteads. 

 

5. Early Human Fossils Discovered in Kenya

The fossil bones in this section are the single most important collection of early human fossils in the world, all of which have been discovered in Kenya. They provide vital information about our distant ancestors. For instance, how did they think? How similar are they to us? Why did one line develop into modern humans while others died out?

The discovery of each of these fossils was a major event which could make the reputation of scientists or overthrow existing ideas about the origins of man. Each one of these has been studied in minute detail for many years and has generated numerous scientific papers and articles in popular magazines, blogs and newspapers.

 

6. The Legacy of Joy Adamson Exhibition

This exhibition reflects on Joy Adamson’s  contribution in the conservation of  Kenya’s natural and cultural heritage. The exhibition chronicles the work that won Joy international acclaim as an illustrator, conservationist and author. This exhibition, showcasing  copies of Joy Adamson’s water colour paintings, is a celebration, not only of the illustrator and conservationist herself but also of  the diversity of Kenya’s culture and natural  environment.

Joy was murdered in January 1980, possibly by poachers. Her body was discovered in Shaba national reserve by her assistant, Peter Morson. The remains of Joy were cremated and the ashes spread over the graves of her lion and cheetah.

Joy, the legendary queen of conservation, bonding with a lioness.

7. Cycles of Life Gallery

Societies all over Africa mark stages of life differently. Although the ways in which such stages are marked differ, they form a cyclic rhythm that could generally be divided into childhood, youth, adulthood  and ancestor stages. Each stage is marked with particular ceremonies and rituals.

Cycles of Life gallery offers insights−through paintings, photographs, cultural objects and video clips− into the ways in which various Kenyan communities marked each stage.

 

A photo of newly-initiated boys.

 

P/S

• The museum is open daily from 8:30 am to 5:30 pm including weekends and public holidays
• The charges are: Ksh 300 for Kenyans, Ksh 600 for East Africans and Ksh 1500 for non-residents.
• There is a gift shop and a restaurant within the confines of the museum.